Theoretical Physics

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April 10, 2026

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April 10, 2026

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"The popular explanation of the Equilibrium-theory is very simple. If we conceive the earth to be wholly or in a great degree with water, and consider that the attraction of the moon upon different particles (according to the law of gravitation) is inversely as the square of their distance, and is therefore greatest for those particles which are nearest to it; then it will be obvious that the moon attracts the water on that side which is next to her, more than she attracts the great mass of the earth, and therefore tends to raise the water from the earth on the side next to her; but she also attracts the great mass of the earth more than she attracts the water upon the side most distant from her, and therefore tends to draw the earth from the water on the side most distant from her; which will produce exactly the same effect as if a force tended to draw the water away from the earth on that side. Thus the moon’s action tends to raise the water on two opposite sides of the earth; and similarly the sun’s action tends to raise the water on two opposite sides. The close relation, however, which the times of high water bear to the times of the moon’s passage, shows that the moon’s influence in raising the tides must be much greater than the sun's. If the sun and moon are together, as seen from the earth, the elevations produced by these two bodies will coincide in place, and will therefore be added together. Thus Spring Tides will be produced. In other relative positions of the sun and moon, it may happen that the elevation produced by the sun will occur at a place where the moon causes depression: the action of the sun there tends to counteract that of the moon, and Neap Tides will be produced."

- Theory of tides

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"In most cases, the solutions of problems of hydrodynamics are not satisfactorily confirmed by the results of observation. Poisson and Cauchy have prosecuted the subject of waves, and have deduced very curious conclusions by a very recondite and profound analysis. The assumptions of the mathematician here do not represent the conditions of nature; the rules of theory, therefore, are not a good standard to which we may refer the aberrations of particular cases; and the laws which we obtain from experiment are very imperfectly illustrated by à priori calculation. The case of this department of knowledge, hydrodynamics, is very peculiar... we want, in addition to what we have, true and useful principles, intermediate between the highest and the lowest;—between the extreme and almost barren generality of the laws of motion, and the endless varieties and inextricable complexity of fluid motions in special cases. The reason of this peculiarity in the science of hydrodynamics appears to be, that its general principles were not discovered with reference to the science itself, but by extension from the sister science of the mechanics of solids...by a perception that the parts of fluids are included in that range of generality which we are entitled to give to the supreme laws of motion of solids. ...[S]olid and fluid dynamics resemble two edifices which have their highest apartment in common, and though we can explore every part of the former building, we have not yet succeeded in traversing the staircase of the latter, either from the top or from the bottom. If we had lived in a world in which there were no solid bodies, we should probably not yet have discovered the laws of motion; if we had lived in a world in which there were no fluids, we should have no idea how insufficient a complete possession of the laws of motion may be, to give us a true knowledge of particular results."

- Theory of tides

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"That all the parts of the universe are drawn and held together by love, or harmony, or some affection to which, among other names, that of attraction may have been given, is an assertion which may very possibly have been made at various times, by speculators writing at random, and taking their chance of meaning and truth. The authors of such casual dogmas have generally nothing accurate or substantial, either in their conception of the general proposition, or in their reference to examples of it... But among those who were really the first to think of the mutual attraction of matter, we cannot help noticing Francis Bacon; for his notions were so far from being chargeable with the looseness and indistinctness to which we have alluded, that he proposed an experiment which was to decide whether the facts were so or not;—whether the gravity of bodies to the earth arose from an attraction of the parts of matter towards each other, or was a tendency towards the centre of the earth. And this experiment is, even to this day, one of the best which can be devised, in order to exhibit the universal gravitation of matter: it consists in the comparison of the rate of going of a clock in a deep mine, and on a high place. Huyghens, in his book "De Causâ Gravitatis," published in 1690, showed that the earth would have an oblate form, in consequence of the action of the centrifugal force; but his reasoning does not suppose gravity to arise from the mutual attraction of the parts of the earth. The influence of the moon upon the tides had long been remarked; but no one had made any progress in truly explaining the mechanism of this influence; and all the analogies to which reference had been made, on this and similar subjects, as magnetic and other attractions, were rather delusive than illustrative, since they represented the attraction as something peculiar in particular bodies, depending upon the nature of each body. That all such forces, cosmical and terrestrial, were the same single force, and that this was nothing more than the insensible attraction which subsists between one stone and another, was a conception equally bold and grand; and would have been an incomprehensible thought, if the views which we have already explained had not prepared the mind for it."

- Theory of tides

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"We propose... to enter at some length into the mathematical theories, and the experimental observations, applying to the two subjects of Tides and Waves of water. But we do not intend to treat them with the same extension. We shall give the various theories of Tides in detail sufficient to enable the reader to understand the present state of the science... and we shall advert to the principal observations which throw light either on the ordinary phænomena of tides, or on the extraordinary deviations that occur in peculiar circumstances. In thus treating the Tides, it will be necessary for us to enter largely into the theory of Waves. We shall take advantage of this circumstance for the introduction several propositions, not applying to the theory Tides, but elucidating some of the ordinary observations upon small Waves. But these investigations will be limited to that class which is most closely connected with tides, namely, that in which similar waves follow each other in a continuous series, or in which the same mathematical process may be used as when similar waves follow each other. In this class will be included nearly all the phænomena of waves produced by natural causes, and therefore possessing general interest. But it will not include the waves of discontinuous nature produced by the sudden action of arbitrary causes, which have been the subject of several remarkable mathematical memoirs, but which possess no interest for the general reader."

- Theory of tides

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