"I wanted to introduce him to surfing, but it made sense to start out with . We drove over to Half Moon Bay one afternoon in early May, rented wet suits and boards, and Linus protested heavily at the thought of wading into the chilly waters of the Pacific, even in a wet suit. But within minutes something amazing happened: He delighted in riding the waves. “This is great,” he enthused like a five-year old at one point, slapping me a high five. Of course, about fifteen minutes later he developed a nasty leg cramp—from being so out of shape, he reasoned—and had to stop. (When the cramp hit, he just sat there in the white water, apparently unable to get up, as waves washed over him. My first thought was: “Oh fuck. If I kill this guy, I’ll have millions of nerds on my case.”)"
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David Diamond. "King of the Ball", "Fame and Fortune"
https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Just_for_Fun
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Just for Fun
Just for Fun: The Story of an Accidental Revolutionary is an autobiography of Linus Torvalds, the Finnish software developer who created Linux and (later) Git. The book was published in 2001. Torvalds wrote it with journalist David Diamond, who had interviewed him in 1999 for the San Jose Mercury News.
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