"CHAMPAGNE. The sign of a grand dinner. Pretend to despise it, saying: 'It isn't really a wine.' Arouses the enthusiasm of the lower orders. Russia drinks more of it than France. The medium through which French ideas have been spread throughout Europe. During the Regency people did nothing but drink champagne. But one doesn't drink champagne: one 'sips' it."
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Gustave Flaubert, Dictionary of Received Ideas, 1870s Gustave Flaubert - Dictionary Of Accepted Ideas
https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Champagne
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Champagne
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