"I am a fanatic for big waves. I just can’t resist them and the urge to paddle out and try to ride the biggest waves o…"

"Every big wave rider can tell you of his narrow escapes from death."

"You never get enough big surf to tire of it. When the small surf is running, I go skindiving."

"Although the Australian beaches I’ve listed all throw up some really big waves, you have to go to Hawaii to sample th…"

"I don’t like to compete and I don’t think any of the top riders do. It takes too much of the pleasure out of the spor…"

"The natives at Cape York call themselves Gudaŋ. Westward of that tribe are the Kokiliga; south-west of the Gudaŋ are …"

"In all my excursions I was accompanied by Blacks. An encampment of natives lay at about half a mile from the shore; t…"

"The most prized possession of these Blacks is, however, the bamboo pipe, of which there were several in the camp. The…"

"No other property than that mentioned was to be seen about the camp of the Gudangs, but on our asking for them. Longw…"

"I tested Longway and also several of the Blacks together at before them, but could not get them to count in their lan…"