"As gay men’s visibility increased many sought to break the old stereotypes of effeminacy they felt had dogged them. The clone look was very American (no one has ever found English policemen or building site workers a turn on) and extremely problematic - many gay men refused to embrace such an endorsement of how men had been traditionally taught to look and act. What price coming out of the closet if you just walk into the wardrobe of your oppressors?"