"For many observers, Madhya Pradesh is the true land of the tiger; not only does it have the highest tiger population in India, it also has some of the most exciting habitats anywhere in the tiger's range. These include the steep ledges that look down on the raging Ken River in Panna, the exquisite bamboo forests of Bandhavgarh, the open meadows of Kanha and the rolling highlands of Satpura. Here, in Satpura the river meanders around looming cliffs, creating landscapes of infinite beauty. Barking deer watch you pass, paralysed for a few seconds, before bounding away; sambar seem immense and dark with coats that look like velvet."