"Our first visit was to a celebrated temple, named the Vishvayesa,1 consisting of a very small but beautiful specimen of carved stone-work, and the place is one of the most holy in Hindostan, though it only approximates to a yet more sacred spot adjoining, which Aulum Gheer defiled,2 and built a mosque on it, so as to render it inaccessible to the worshippers of Brahma. The temple-court, small as it is, is crowded like a farm-yard with very fat and very tame bulls, which thrust their noses into every body’s hand and pocket for gram and sweetmeats, which their fellow-votaries give them in great quantities. The cloisters are no less full of naked devotees, as hideous as chalk and dung can make them, and the continued hum of ‘ Bam ! Ram ! Ram ! Ram ! is enough to make a stranger giddy. The place is kept very clean however, — indeed the priests seem to do little else than pour water over the images and the pavement, and I foimd them not merely willing, but anxious, to shew me every thing, — frequently repeating that they were Padres also, though it is true that they used this circumstance as an argument for my giving them a present. Near this temple is a well, with a small tower over it, and a steep flight of steps for descending to the water which is brought by a subterraneous channel from the Ganges, and, for some reason or other, is accounted more holy than even the Ganges itself. All pilgrims to Benares are enjoined to drink and wash here ; but a few years ago, a quarrel having occurred between the Hindoo and , Mussulman population of the town, arising from the two rehgious -processions of th6 Mohurrun and Jimma Osmee encountering each other, the Moslem mob killed a cow on this spot, and poured her blood into the sacred water. The Hindoos retaliated by throwing rashers of bacon into the windows of as many mosques as they could reach ; but the matter did not end so : both parties took to arms, several Kves were lost, and Benares was in a state of uproar for many hours, till the British Government came in with its authority, and quelled the disturbance."
Varanasi

January 1, 1970