Kingdom of Candia

"The Ile of Candy formerly called Creta, hath to the North the Ægean sea, to the West the sea Ionian; to the South the Libique sea, and to the East, the Carpathian sea: It lieth midway twixt Achaia in Greece and Cyrene in Affrick, not being distant from the one, nor from the other, above two dayes sayling: It is a most famous and auncient Kingdome: By moderne Writers, it is called Queene of the Iles Mediterrene: It had of olde an hundreth Citties, whereof it had the name Hecatompolis, but now onely foure, Candia, Canea, Rethimos, and Scythia, the rest are but Villages and Bourges. It is of length, to wit, from Capo Ermico in the West, called by Pliny, Frons arietis, and Capo Salomone in the East, two hundreth and forty Miles, large threescore, and of circuit sixe hundreth and fifty miles.This is the chiefe Dominion, belonging to the Venetian Reipublique: In every one of these foure Citties, there is a Governour, and two Counsellors, sent from Venice every two yeares. The Countrey is divided into foure parts, under the jurisdiction of the foure Citties, for the better administration of Justice: and they have a Generall, who commonly remaineth in the Citty of Candy (like to a Viceroy) who deposeth, or imposeth Magistrates, Captaines, Souldiers, Officers, and others whatsoever, in the behalfe of Saint Marke or Duke of Venice. The Venetians detaine continually a strong guard, divided in Companies, Squadrons, and Garrisons, in the Citties and Fortresses of the Iland: which do extend to the number of 12000. Souldiers, kept, not onely for the incursion of Turks, but also for feare of the Creets or Inhabitants, who would rather (if they could) render to the Turke, then to live under the subjection of Venice, thinking thereby to have more liberty, & lesse taxed under the Infidell, then now they are under the Christian."

"This Ile produceth the best Malvasy, Muscadine and Leaticke wines, that are in the whole Universe. It yeeldeth Orenges, Lemmons, Mellons, Cytrons, Grenadiers, Adams Apples, Raisins, Olives, Dates, Hony, Sugar, Vua di tre volte, and all other kindes of fruite in abundance. But the most part of the Cornes are brought yearely from Archipelago and Greece. The chiefe Rivers are Cataracho, Melipotomos, Escasino; being all of them shallow and discommodious for shipping, in respect of their short courses, and rocky passages: And the principall Citties of olde, were Gnassus, where Minos kept his Court, 2. Cortina, 3. Aphra and Cydonia. This Countrey was by Marcellus made subject to the Romanes: It was afterward given by Baldwin Earle of Flanders, the first Latin Emperor of Constantinople to Boniface of Montserrat, who sold it, Anno 1194. to the Venetians.This much of the Ile in generall; and now in respect of my travelling two times through the bounds of the whole Kingdome, which was never before atchieved by any Traveller in Christendome; I will as briefly as I can in particular, relate a few of these miseries indured by me in this Land, with the nature & quality of the people."

"This aforesaid Carabusa, is the principall Fortresse of Creta, being of it selfe invincible, and is not unlike to the Castle of Dunbertan, which standeth at the mouth of Clyd; upon which River the auncient City of Lanerke is situated: For this Fort is environed with a Rocke higher then the wals, and joyneth close with Capo Ermico: having learned of the theevish way I had to Canea, I advised to put my mony in exchange, which the Captaine of that strength very curteously performed; and would also have diswaded me from my purpose, but I by no perswasion of him would stay. From thence departing, all alone, scarcely was I advanced twelve miles in my way, when I was beset on the skirt of a Rocky Mountaine; with three Greeke murdering Renegadoes, and an Italian Bandido: who laying hands on me, beate me most cruelly, robbed me of all my clothes, and stripped me naked, threatning me with many grievous speeches."

"At last the respective Italian, perceiving I was a stranger, and could not speake the Cretan tongue, began to aske me in his owne language, where was my money? to whom I soberly answered, I had no more then he saw, which was fourescore Bagantines: which scarcely amounted to two groats English: But he not giving credit to these words, searched all my clothes and Budgeto, yet found nothing except my linnen, and Letters of recommendations I had from divers Princes of Christendome, especially the Duke of Venice, whose subjects they were, if they had beene lawfull subjects: Which when he saw, did move him to compassion, and earnestly entreated the other three theeves to grant me mercy, and to save my life: A long deliberation being ended, they restored backe againe my Pilgrimes clothes, and Letters, but my blew gowne and Bagantines they kept: Such also was their theevish courtesie toward me, that for my better safegard in the way, they gave me a stamped piece of clay, as a token to shew any of their companions, if I encountred with any of them; for they were about twenty Rascalles of a confederate band, that lay in this desart passage."

"Leaving them with many counterfeit thankes, I travelled that day seaven and thirty miles, and at night attained to the unhappy Village of Pickehorno: where I could have neither meate, drinke, lodging, nor any refreshment to my wearied body. These desperate Candiots thronged about me, gazing (as though astonished) to see me both want company, and their Language, and by their cruell lookes, they seemed to be a barbarous and uncivill people: For all these High-landers of Candy, are tyrannicall, blood-thirsty, and deceitfull. The consideration of which and the appearance of my death, signed to me secretly by a pittifull woman, made me to shun their villany in stealing forth from them in the darke night, and privately sought for a secure place of repose in a umbragious Cave by the Sea side, where I lay till morning with a fearefull heart, a crased body, a thirstie stomacke, and a hungry belly."

"Upon the appearing of the next Aurora, and when the welkin, had put aside the vizard of the night, the Starres being coverd, and the earth discoverd by the Sunne; I imbraced my unknowne way, and about midday came to Canea: Canea is the second Citie of Creete, called aunciently Cydon, being exceeding populous, well walled, and fortified with Bulwarkes: It hath a large Castle, containing ninety seaven Pallaces, in which the Rector and other Venetian Gentlemen dwell. There lye continually in it seaven Companies of Souldiers who keepe Centinell on the walles, guarde the gates and Market places of the Citie: Neither in this Towne nor Candia, may any Countrey Peasant enter with weapons (especially Harquebuzes) for that conceived feare they have of Treason. Truely this City may equall in strength, either Zara in Dalmatia, or Luka, or Ligorne, both in Tuscana, or matchlesse Palma in Friuly: for these five Cities are so strong, that in all my Travells I never saw them matched. They are all well provided with abundance of Artilery, and all necessary things for their defence, especially Luka, which continually reserves in store provision of victuals for twelve yeares siege."

"In my first abode in Canea, being a fortnight, there came 6. Gallies from Venice, upon one of which there was a young French Gentleman, a Protestant, borne neare Monpeillier in Langadocke; who being by chance in company with other foure of his Countrey-men in Venice, one of them killed a young Noble Venetian, about the quarrell of a Courtezan: Whereupon they flying to the French Ambassadours house, the rest escaped, and he onely apprehended by a fall in his flight, was afterward condemned by the Senatours to the Galleys induring life. Now the Galleys lying here sixe dayes, he got leave of the Captaine to come a shoare with a Keeper, when he would, carrying an yron bolt on his legge: In which time we falling in acquaintance, he complained heavily of his hard fortune, and how because he was a Protestant, (besides his slavery) he was severely abused in the Galley; sighing forth these words with teares, Lord have mercy upon me, and graunt me patience, for neither friends, nor money can redeeme me: At which expression I was both glad and sorrowfull, the one moving my soule to exult in joy for his Religion: the other, for his misfortunes, working a Christian condolement for intolerable affliction: For I was in Venice, at that same time when this accident fell out, yet would not tell him so much: But pondering seriously his lamentable distresse, I secretly advised him the manner how he might escape, and how farre I would hazard the liberty of my life for his deliverance, desiring him to come a shoare earely the next morning. Meane while I went to an old Greekish woman, with whom I was friendly inward, for she was my Landresse; and reciting to her the whole businesse, she willingly condiscended to lend me an old gowne, and a blacke vaile for his disguisement. The time come, and we met, the matter was difficult to shake off the Keeper; but such was my plot, I did invite him to the Wine, where after tractall discourses, and deepe draughts of Leatick, reason failing, sleepe overcame his sences. Whereupon conducting my friend to the appointed place, I disburdened him of his Irons, clothed him in a female habite, and sent him out before me, conducted by the Greekish woman: And when securely past both Guards and Gate, I followed, carrying with me his clothes: where, when accoasting him by a field of Olives, and the other returned backe, we speedily crossed the vale of Suda, and interchanging his apparrell, I directed him the way over the Mountaines to a Greekish convent on the South side of the land, a place of safeguard, called commonly the Monastery of refuge; where he would kindly be entertained, till either the Galleys, or men of Warre of Malta arrived: It being a custome at their going, or comming from the Levante to touch here, to relieve and carry away distressed men: This is a place whereunto Bandits, men slayers, and robbers repaire for reliefe."

"And now many joyfull thanks from him redounded, I returned keeping the high way, where incontinent I encountred two English Souldiers, John Smith, and Thomas Hargrave, comming of purpose to informe me of an eminent danger, shewing me that all the Officers of the Galleys, with a number of Souldiers were in searching the City, and hunting all over the fields for me: After which relation, consulting with them, what way I could come to the Italian Monastery Saint Salvator, for there I lay; (the vulgar Towne affording neither lodging nor beds). They answered me, they would venture their lives for my liberty, and I should enter at the Easterne (the least frequented) gate of the City, where three other English men were that day on guard, for so there were five of them here in Garison: Where, when we came, the other English accompanied with eight French souldiers their familiars, came along with us also: And having past the Market place, and neere my lodging, foure Officers and sixe Galley souldiers, runne to lay hands on me: whereat the English and French unsheathing their Swords, valiantly resisted their fury, and deadly wounded two of the Officers: Meane while fresh supply comming from the Galleys, John Smith runne along with me to the Monastery, leaving the rest at pell mell, to intercept their following: At last the Captaines of the Garrison approaching the tumult, relieved their owne Souldiers, and drove backe the other to the Galleys. A little thereafter the Generall of the Galleys come to the Monastery, and examined me concerning the fugitive, but I cleering my selfe so, and quenching the least suspition he might conceive (notwithstanding of mine accusers) hee could lay nothing to my charge: howsoever it was, he seemed somewhat favourable; partly, because I had the Duke of Venice his Pasport, partly, because of mine intended voyage to Jerusalem; partly, because he was a great favourer of the French Nation: and partly because he could not mend himselfe, in regard of my shelter, and the Governours favour: yet neverthelesse, I detained my selfe under safeguard of the Cloyster, untill the Galleys were gone.Being here disappointed of transportation to Archipelago, I advised to visit Candy: and in my way I past by the large Haven of Suda, which hath no Towne or Village, save onely a Castle, situated on a Rocke in the Sea, at the entry of the Bay: the bounds of that Harbour may receive at one time above two thousand Shippes and Galleys, and is the onely Key of the Iland: for the which place, the King of Spaine hath oft offered an infinite deale of money to the Venetians, whereby his Navy which sometimes resort in the Levante, might have accesse and reliefe; but they would never graunt him his request; which policy of his was onely to have surprized the Kingdome."

"South-west from this famous harbour, lieth a pleasant plaine surnamed the Valley of Suda: It is twenty Italian Miles long, and two of breadth: And I remember, or I discended to crosse the Valley, and passe the haven, me thought the whole planure resembled to me a greene sea; and that was onely by reason of infinite Olive trees grew there, whose boughes and leaves over-toppe all other fructiferous trees in that plaine: The Villages for losse of ground are all built on the skirts of Rockes, upon the South side of the Valley; yea, and so difficile to climbe them, and so dangerous to dwell in them, that me thought their lives were in like perill, as he who was adjoyned to sit under the poynt of a two handed sword, and it hanging by the haire of a horse tayle.Trust me, I told along these Rockes at one time, and within my sight, some 67. Villages; but when I entred the valley, I could not find a foote of ground unmanured, save a narrow passing way wherein I was: The Olives, Pomgranets, Dates, Figges, Orenges, Lemmons, and Pomi del Adamo growing all through other: And at the rootes of which trees grew Wheate, Malvasie, Muscadine, Leaticke Wines, Grenadiers, Carnobiers, Mellones, and all other sorts of fruites and hearbes, the earth can yeeld to man; that for beauty, pleasure, and profit it may easily be surnamed, the garden of the whole Universe: being the goodliest plot, the Diamond sparke, and the Honny spot of all Candy: There is no land more temperate for ayre, for it hath a double spring-tyde; no soyle more fertile, and therefore it is called the Combat of Bachus and Ceres; nor region or valley more hospitable, in regard of the sea, having such a noble haven cut through its bosome, being as it were the very resting place of Neptune."

"Upon the third dayes journey from Canea, I came to Rethimos; This City is somewhat ruinous, and unwalled, but the Citizens have newly builded a strong Fortresse, but rather done by the State of Venice, which defendeth them from the invasion of Pyrats: It standeth by the sea side, and in the yeare 1597. It was miserably sacked, and burned with Turkes. Continuing my voyage, I passed along the skirt of Mount Ida, accompanied with Greekes, who could speake the Italian tongue, on which, first they shewed me the cave of King Minos, but some hold it to be the Sepulcher of Jupiter. That Groto was of length eighty paces, and eight large: This Minos was sayd to be the brother of Radamanthus, and Sarpedon; who, after their succession to the Kingdome, established such æquitable lawes, that by Poets they are feigned with Æacus to be the Judges of Hell. I saw also there, the place where Jupiter (as they say) was nourished by Amalthes, which by Greekes is recited, as well as Latine Poets."

"Thirdly, they shewed me the Temple of Saturne, which is a worke to be admired, of such Antiquity, and as yet undecayed; who (say they) was the first King that inhabited there, and Father to Jupiter. And neare to it is the demolished Temple of Matelia, having this superscription above the doore, yet to be seene: Make cleane your feete, wash your hands and enter. Fourthly, I saw the entry into the Laborinth of Dedalus, which I would gladly have better viewed, but because we had no Candle-light, we durst not enter: for there are many hollow places within it: so that if a man stumble, or fall, he can hardly be rescued: It is cut forth with many intricating wayes, on the face of a little hill, joyning with Mount Ida, having many doores and pillars. Here it was where Theseus by the helpe of Ariadne the daughter of King Minos, taking a bottome of threed, and tying the one end at the first doore, did enter and slay the Minotaurus, who was included there by Dedalus: This Minotaure is sayd to have bene begot by the lewd and luxurious Pasiphae, who doted on a white Bull."

"Mount Ida is the highest Mountaine in Creta, and by the computation of Shepheards feete, amounteth to sixe miles of height: It is over-clad even to the toppe with Cypre trees, and good store of medicinable hearbes: insomuch that the beasts which feede thereupon, have their teeth gilded, like to the colour of Gold: Mount Ida, of old was called Phelorita, by some Cadussa, but modernely Madura: It is sayd by some Historians, that no venemous animall can live in this Ile; but I saw the contrary: For I kild on a Sunday morning hard by the Sea-side, and within two miles of Rethimos, two Serpents and a Viper: One of which Serpents, was above a yard and halfe in length, for they being all three rolling within the coverture of the dry sands, my right legge was almost in their reverence before I remarked the danger: Wherefore many build upon false reports, but experience teacheth men the trueth.Some others also Historize, that if a Woman here, bite a man any thing hard, he will never recover: and that there is an hearbe called Allimos in this Iland, which if one chaw in his mouth, he shall not feele hunger for foure and twenty howres: all which are meere fabulous, such is the darkenesse of cloudy inventions.Descending from this Mountaine, I entred in a faire plaine, beautified with many Villages; in one of which, I found a Grecian Bishop, who kindly presented me with grapes of Malvasie, and other things, for it was in the time of their vintage. To carry these things he had given me, he caused to make ready an Asse, and a Servant, who went with me to Candy, which was more then fifteene miles from his house. True it is, that the best sort of Greekes, in visiting other, doe not use to come empty handed, neither will they suffer a stranger to depart without both gifts and convoy.I remember along this sassinous and marine passage, I found three fountaines gushing forth of a Rocke, each one within a yard of other, having three sundry tasts: the first water was exceeding light, and sweet; the middle or second, marvelous sowre and heavy: the third was bitter and extraordinary salt: so that in so short bounds so great difference, I never found before, nor afterward."

"Candy is distant from Canea a hundreth miles, Rethimos being halfe way betwixt both: so is Candy halfe way in the same measure, twixt Rethimos and Scythia, and Canea the like twixt Rethimos and Carabusa, being in all 200. miles.Candy is a large and famous City, formerly called Matium, situated on a plaine by the sea side, having a goodly Haven for shippes, and a faire Arsenall wherein are 36. Gallies: It is exceeding strong, and dayly guarded with 2000. Souldiers, and the walles in compasse are about three leagues.In this time there was no Viceroy, the former being newly dead, and the place vacant, the Souldiers kept a bloody quarter among themselves, or against any whomsoever their malignity was intended, for in all the time I stayed there being ten dayes, it was nothing to see every day foure or five men killed in the streetes: neither could the Rector, nor the Captaines helpe it, so tumultuous were the disordered Souldiers, and the occasions of revenge and quarrellings so influent. This commonly they practise in every such like vacation, which otherwise, they durst never attempt without death, and severe punishment; and truely me thought it was as barbarous a governed place for the time, as ever I saw in the world: For hardly could I save my owne life free from their dangers, in the which I was twice miserably involved."

"Candy is distant from Venice 1300. miles, from Constantinople 700. from Famagusta in Cyprus, 600. from Alexandria in Ægypt, 500. from Tripoli in Siria 700. from Naples 900. from Malta 500. from Smyrna, in Carmania of Natolia 400. and from the Citty of Jerusalem, 900. miles. The Candeots through all the Iland, make muster every eight day, before the Serjant-majors, or Officers of the Generall, and are well provided with all sorts of Armour; yea, and the most valerous people that hight the name of Greekes. It was told me by the Rector of Candy, that they may raise in Armes of the Inhabitants (not reckoning the Garrisons) above sixty thousand men, all able for warres, with 54. Gallies, and 24. Galleots for the sea."

"In all my travels through this Realme, I never could see a Greeke come forth of his house unarmed: and after such a martiall manner, that on his head he weareth a bare steele cap, a bow in his hand, a long sword by his side, a broad Ponard overthwart his belly, and a round Target hanging at his girdle. They are not costly in apparell, for they weare but linnen cloathes, and use no shooes but bootes of white leather, to keepe their legges in the fields from the prickes of a kind of Thistle, wherewith the Countrey is overcharged like unto little bushes or short shrubs which are marvelous sharpe, and offensive unto the inhabitants, whereof, often a day to my great harme, I found their bloody smart: The women generally weare linnen breaches as men do, and bootes after the same manner, and their linnen coates no longer then the middle of their thighes, and are insatiably inclined to Venery, such is the nature of the soyle and climate. auncient Cretans were such notable lears, that the heathen Poet Epimenides, yea, and the Apostle Paul in his Epistle to Titus, did tearme them to have beene ever liers, evill beasts, and slow bellies: whence sprung these proverbs, as Cretense mendacium, & cretisandum est cum cretensibus.The Candiots are excellent good Archers, surpassing all the Orientall people therein, couragious and valiant upon the Sea, as in former times they were; and they are naturally inclined to singing: so that commonly after meat, Man, Wife, and Child of each family, will for the space of an houre, sing with such a harmony, as is wonderfull melodious to the hearer; yea, and they cannot forgoe the custome of it."

"Their Harvest is our Spring: for they manure the ground, and sow the seed in October, which is reaped in March, and Aprill. Being frustrate of my intention at Candy, I was forced to returne to Canea the same way I went: when come, I was exceeding merry with my old friends the English-men: Meane-while there arrived from Tunnis in Barbary, an English Runagate named Wolson, bound for the Rhodes: where after short acquaintance with his natives, and understanding what I was, he imparted these words, I have had my elder brother, sayd he, the Maister (or Captaine) of a ship, slaine at Burnt-Iland in Scotland by one called Keere; and notwithstanding he was beheaded, I have long since sworne to be revenged of my brothers death, on the first Scotsman I ever saw or met, and my designe is, to stob him with a knife this night, as he goeth late home to his lodging desiring their assistance: But Smith, Hargrave, and Horsfeild refused, yet Cooke and Rollands yeelded. Meane-while Smith knowing where I used sometimes to diet, found me at supper in a Sutlers, a souldiers house, where acquainting me with this plot, the hoste, he, and three Italian souldiers conveighed me to my bed, passing by the arch-villaine, and his confederats, where he was prepared for the mischiefe: which when he saw his treachery was discovered, he fled away, & was seene no more here."

"Remarking the fidelity and kindnesse that Smith had twice shewen me, first in freeing me from the danger of galley-slavery, and now in saving my life, I advised to doe him a good deed in some part of acquittance, and thus it was: At his first comming to Venice, he was taken up as a souldier for Candy: where, when transported, within a small time he found the Captaines promise and performance different, which enforced him at the beginning to borrow a little money of his Lieutenant: the five yeares of their abode expired, and fresh Companies come from Venice to exhibit the charge, Smith not being able to discharge his debt, was turned over to the new Captaine for five yeares more, who payed the old Captaine his mony; and his time also worne out, the third Captaine came, where likewise he was put in his hands serving him five yeares longer.Thus having served three Captaines fifteene yeares, and never likely able (for a small trifle) to attaine his liberty, I went to the Captaine and payed his debt, obtaining also of the Rector his licence to depart; and the allowance of the State for his passage, which was Wine and Biscot-bread: Thereafter: I imbarked him for Venice in a Flemish ship, the Maister being a Scotsman, John Allen borne in Glasgow, and dwelt at Middleborough in Zeland, his debt was onely forty eight shillings starling."

"Here I stayed in Canea twenty five dayes before I could get passage for the Arch Ilands, being purposed for Constantinople; but gladly would not have left the Monastary of these foure Friars, with whom I was lodged, if it had not beene for my designes; in regard of their great cheere and deepe draughts of Malvasey I received hourely, and oftentimes against my will: Every night after supper, the Friars forced me to dance with them, either one gagliard or other: Their Musicke in the end was sound drunkennesse, and their Syncopa turnd to spew up all, and their bed converted to a boord, or else the hard floore, for these beastly swine, were nightly so full, that they had never power to goe to their owne chambers, but where they fell, there they lay till the morne: the cloyster it selfe had two faire Courts, the least of which might have lodged any King of Europe: The Church was little, and among the foure Friars, there was but one Masse-Priest, being a Greeke borne and turn’d to the Roman faction: his new name was Pattarras Matecarras, Pater Libenter, or Father of free will, indeed a right name for so sottish a fellow, for he was so free of his stomacke to receive in strong liquor, that for the space of twenty dayes of my being there, I never saw him, nor any one of the other three truely sober. Many odde merriments and jests have I observed of these Friars of Candie, but time will not suffer me to relate them, onely remitting the rest to my privat discourse, a figge for their folly."

"I travelled on foot in this Ile more then foure hundred miles, and upon the fifty eight day after my first comming to Carabusa, I imbarked in a Fisher-boat that belonged to Milo, being a hundred miles distant, which had beene violently driven thither with stormy weather."