Surfers

"Now I have no idea how this has come about - probably a rumour spread by my enemies - but apparently there's a general belief among some sections of the surf community that I am a bit of a drop-in artist."

"I am a fanatic for big waves. I just can’t resist them and the urge to paddle out and try to ride the biggest waves of all is the most compelling thing in my life, the most moving challenge I know."

"Every big wave rider can tell you of his narrow escapes from death."

"You never get enough big surf to tire of it. When the small surf is running, I go skindiving."

"Although the Australian beaches I’ve listed all throw up some really big waves, you have to go to Hawaii to sample the biggest available in the world."

"I don’t like to compete and I don’t think any of the top riders do. It takes too much of the pleasure out of the sport and creates too many jealousies. Competitions are all against the spirit of surf-riding, which is supposed to be a communion with nature rather than a hectic chase for points."

"Though it eats up my savings, I’ve just got to ride the biggest waves I can find in this world. The big waves may scare me, but with my new big gun boards, I fancy I can ride a few of them."

"Most people didn’t realise how I struggled throughout my life and career. There was a lot of pain, negative thoughts, and trauma that others didn’t see, and today the majority of the population is enduring this."